Sunday, July 15, 2007

Anchovies

When I first heard of anchovies, they were described to me in with the describing of the most disgusting pizza the teller had ever encountered. "There are these tiny, salty, oily little FISH on the pizza", I was informed.
Horrible.
I don't think I ate an anchovy in my life after that. My mother knew I disliked them, and as the increadibly accomodating lady that she is, she would cook something different or leave them out for me whenever she used them in a dish. So there were no anchovies for me.
Until I came to Al Di La. By the time I interned at the restaurant, I was determined to try whatever crossed my path. We lay whole anchovy filets across the top of the carpaccio, and served grilled escarole in thicky anchovy vinaigrette with an extra spash of sherry vinaigre. That grilled escarole was perhaps my favorite single food Al Di La served. It seldom came my way, since it was a side made to order so there was none leftover at the end of the night, but I was ecstatic the few times it did.
It was the flavor of the anchovies they did it. Blended into a vinaigrette with other ingredients, it was this rich, wonderful salty-sour slightly -- unconsciously -- fishy. On the bitter, barely-charred, silky-wilted escarole it was phenomonal.
From then on I have trusted anchovies, and they have not let me down. There aren't many dishes that know how to use them, and there aren't many cooks who are brave enough to include them, but they're are a few tins in every grocery store for only a few dollars, and a few of them can make a delicious meal.
This one has been served here twice this summer, the first time as an off beat meal for myself, Z, and our beer-swilling, lady-enticing, meat devouring metal head friend, who ate more than his share of it and complimented me on cooking a more or less meatless meal. The second time was tonight, when Z asked me to make it again because he had enjoyed it so much.

Take two heads of broccoli and cut them into small florets. Chop 5 anchovy fillts and three nice cloves of garlic. Make sure you have salt, fresh black pepper and dried red pepper flakes on hand, as well as butter and olive oil. Also parmesan cheese. Boil enough water to cook 1 pound Farfalle. Salt the water plentifully. When it boils, add the pasta. After 5 minutes, add the broccoli florets. Cook about 5 minutes more.
Mean time, heat about half a stik of butter (cut smaller) and 1/4 cup olive oil in a really, really big skillet. Biggest you have. Maybe a wok. Add the anchovy, garlic, and a good pinch red pepper flakes. Cook about five minutes, then add the broccoli, and pasta, and some black pepper. Toss. Add some reserved pasta water (you reserved it, remember) to make a light sauce. Sprinkle generously (like, maybe 1/4 cup generously), with grated parmesan cheese. This is essential.
Serve.

This dish is really yummy and feels nice and light, yet filling, on a summer day. The anchovies give it alot of flavor, but for the life of me I can't really describe it. Anchovies are like that.

1 comment:

The Bee Lady said...

Damn, I'm going to try this recipe soon! It sounds really yummy!